Cluster Detail
Uttar Pradesh     Lucknow     Bahraich


 

A cluster is defined as a geographic concentration (a city/town/few adjacent village and their adjoining areas) of units producing near similar products and facing common opportunities and threats. An artisan cluster is defined as geographically concentrated (mostly in villages/townships) household units producing handicraft/handloom products. In a typical cluster, such producers often belong to a traditional community, producing the long-established products for generations. Indeed, many artisan clusters are centuries old Artisan.

 

About Bahraich Cluster:-

 

Bahraich Cluster falls under Uttar Pradesh State in Lucknow district.

 

The Bahraich cluster is able to form 200 plus Artisans & 15 SHGs supporting the strong work force. The mobilization gains momentum day by day.

 

 

Textile Handloom:-

 

The main centers of Jamdani weaving in Uttar Pradesh are Tanda (Fyzabad district) and Banaras. Jamdanis are very thinly textured muslins (white thin cloth) with floral, bird and animal motifs which are woven on the loom. The warp is unbleached gray yarn and the motifs are woven with bleached white yarn. At Banaras the craftsperson use gold thread in addition to the bleached and unbleached white threads. The finest Banaras muslins are called Kasivastras. Tanda fabrics are exceptionally frail and only white yarn is used for the weaving. The threads used for decoration are not cut at the edges, but are left hanging in the spool and then introduced into the figured pick.

 

The craftsperson today also follows the traditional Jamdani pit looms to form traditional designs. The weaving done is with two threads of yarn of the same count as the background are used to weave the floral motifs which are done by means of extra spools, The kind of weaving done is known as twill-tapestry, which is same as embroidery where the bamboo-spindle takes the place of the needle. Jamdanis are very suitable for saris, caps and angarkhis.. The motifs of flowers used for the weaving are chameli, pomera, genda, mogra, kamana,juhi, khas ishqapench, harsingar and phulbanjari. Aribel, Kangura, Jaldar, Saro, Marava, Haravver, Lahar, Purmatan, Kharibel are few motifs which are very regularly used in Jamdani weaving of Uttar Pradesh.

 

While the Daccai Jamdani is strictly a party affair, the other Jamdani are much sought after by fashion-conscious working women for their elegance. These are mostly Jamdani motifs on Tangail fabric and are generally known by the confusing nomenclature of Tangail Jamdani. Although beige background is the most popular, these are available in a riot of colors, at affordable prices.

 

 

Raw Materials:-

 

1.Thread
2.Cotton Cloth
3.Wood Blocks
4.Colours

 

 

Process:-

 

The wool is collected every spring, and spinning is done by hand. The yarn is spun on a spinning wheel locally known as ‘Charkha’. Prior to spinning, the raw material is treated by stretching and cleaning it to remove any dirt and soaked for a few days in a mixture of rice and water to make it softer. Hand-spinning is an extremely painstaking and a lengthy task. It requires extreme patience and dedication, and is an amazing process to watch.

 

Yarn is too fragile for the vibration caused by power looms thus the weaving of the traditional 100% shawls is therefore done on Hand Looms. It is essential for the weaver to have a uniform hand, for par excellence fabric. Weaving is done with a shuttle. The weaving process is in itself an art, which has been passed over from generations to generations. It takes about 4 days to weave a single shawl on a handloom.

 

Dyeing is also done by hand and each piece individually. Dyers with immense patience and generations of experience are the ones who dye the shawls, as even the smallest negligence reflects on the quality of the product. Only metal and azo-free dyes are used, making the shawls completely eco-friendly. The pure water used for dying is pumped up from deep beneath the surface. Dyeing is done at a temperature just below boiling point for nearly an hour. Pashmina wool is exceptionally absorbent, and dyes easily and deeply.

 

 

Techniques:-

 

In Jamdani the pattern of design drawn on paper is pinned beneath the warp threads. As the weaving proceeds, the designs are worked in like embroidery. When the weft thread approaches close to where a flower or other figure has to be inserted, the weaver takes up one of a set of bamboo needles round each of which is wrapped yarn of a different colour as needed for the design. As every weft or wool thread passes through the warp, he sews down the intersected portion of the pattern with one or another of the needles as might be required and so continues till the pattern is completed. When the pattern is continuous and regular, a master weaver generally dispenses with the aid of paper patterns.

 

 

How to Reach:-

 

By Air:-

 

Lucknow is well connected by air with the major cities and towns in India. Lucknow airport is at Amausi, located about 15 km from the city center.

 

By Road:-

 

Lucknow is well connected by a network of roads and road transport to all major towns of Uttar Pradesh and surrounding areas. The distance between Lucknow and other prominent cities are: Delhi (497km), Agra (363km), Allahabad (238 km), Dehradun (582km), Kanpur (77km) and Varanasi (300km). 

 

By Train:-

 

Lucknow is well connected by air with the major cities and towns in India. Lucknow airport is at Amausi, located about 15 km from the city center.

Textile ( Hand Embroidery):-


The term embroidery is basically defined as the method of ornamenting a piece of clothing with needlework;or embellishment with fanciful details.Thus embroidery is regarded as the art of decorating textiles using a needle and thread.Embroidery of Gujarat has earned its fame because of the versatility of creations by the artisans.The artisans of Gujarat use an array of stitches that are used to decorate the items.The most important centres of embroidery work of Gujarat are located in the Sarasota and Kutch regions and are admired for the creative excellence.The embroidery of Gujarat is one of the main sources of income for different other communities.Today, even though embroidery is amongst the most traditional methods of decorating clothes, it is still as popular.Designs may date back to ancient times, or the modern geometric modern day designs, but all the same embroidery continues to be one of the common ways of decorating clothes.In fact, specialists feel that today,there is much more scope for creativity and innovation, because of the acceptance level.Ari embroidery of Gujarat has its international market in Nigeria where women drape themselves(during ceremonial occasions)in the embroidered cloth from this region. This has ornamentation of tikris and beads, which make them, look attractive.This type of embroidery is done on a frame of wooden beams.The fabric is


worked upon with a long needle, threads, tikris and beads.Multi sized frames are used,usually about 1.5 feet high, to secure the cloth on which the design is sketched with a stencil.One hand secures the thread under the cloth to the needle while the other hand moves the needle on top of the cloth with ease.Decorative tikris and beads are attached to the cloth with the needle.

 

 

This has ornamentation of tikris and beads, which make them, look attractive.This type of embroidery is done on a frame of wooden beams.The fabric is worked upon with a long needle, threads, tikris and beads.Multi sized frames are used,usually about 1.5 feet high, to secure the cloth on which the design is sketched with a stencil.One hand secures the thread under the cloth to the needle while the other hand moves the needle on top of the cloth with ease.Decorative tikris and beads are attached to the cloth with the needle.


Another embroidery pattern is the jaali or net embroidery in geometric or floral shapes and is done by pulling the warp and weft threads and fixing them with minute buttonhole stitches.The finished products dominantly comprise items for household use like curtains, bedspreads, furniture covers and dress material.

 

Raw Materials used:-


The fabric is worked upon with a long needle,threads, tikris and beads.Multi sized frames are used, usually about 1.5 feet high, to secure the cloth on which the design is sketched with a stencil.One hand secures the thread under the cloth to the needle while the other hand moves the needle on top of the cloth with ease.

 

Process:-


As embroidery is not so technical craft to follow procedure but then also small process like:

  1. The motif is made on the tracing screen for symmetrical marking and uniformity, like the Khaka.
  2. The motifs are marked on the fabric with a marking mixer(liquid) for embroidery work.
  3. Now set the marked fabric very tight from all directions.(Saree, Dress materials, etc.)On Wooden frame(it can be done without frame also).
  4. It will work easier to do embroidery with the help of frame to reduce tension and get pucker less product.
  5. The desired motif is neatly embroidered with different stitches(Pakko, Kachho, Soof, Rabari, kharek etc)to achieve desired motif.
  6. The result can be many colors and is easy to make.

Set the fabric(Saree, Dress, material,etc.)on Wooden frame(it can be done without frame also)according to the design with desired allowance for the product.The motif is made the tracing screen for symmetrical making and uniformity, like the Khaka.The motif is marked with a marking mixer in a liquid form(Kerosene and gali powder) whether for embroidery the desired motif is neatly embroidery with different stitches to achieve desired motif.


Embroidery designs are prepared by fixing small round shaped mirrors to the material with the help of the buttonhole stitch, the outline being sketched by hand.Silken thread is used for the stitching done in stem or herringbone, closely worked.Flowers and creepers are patterned against a dark background.

 

Techniques:-

 

Techniques vary with the community and region.The term embroidery is basically defined as the method of ornamenting a piece of clothing with needlework; or embellishment with fanciful details.Thus embroidery is regarded as the art of decorating textiles using a needle and thread.This includes the hand and machine embroidery methods.And till date,hand embroidery continues to be an expensive and time-consuming method.However, in spite of this it is preferred because of the intricacy of the handiwork involved.

 

The basic techniques an embroiderer uses includes:-

  1. Cross stitch
  2. Crewel work
  3. Quilting

 

Pottery and Clay Objects:-

 

Haryana produces a large variety of terracotta products such as lamps, pitchers, flower vases, pots, musical instruments, clay toys, goblets, human and animal figures, plaques, medallions, and wall hangings. Two-toned vases, decorative pitchers, and lamp bases with shades of black and terracotta colours are popular. Kangra, Mandi, Kulu, Chamba, and Shimla have many migrated potters who have been living here since decades. These potters are locally known as kumhars. The products commonly made include pots, toys, money banks, flower vases of different shapes and sizes. These are used for storing many different types of items. The Hindu god figures are made and painted in the most beautiful shades along with many accessories.

 

Kangra artists make clay ware in black and dark red colours. The products made are mainly for domestic use and considered healthy to use. Containers used for setting curds is a famous item .

The clay used is generally a blend of two to three clays found in river beds, pits and ditches. More often than not the fuel used is one of the local resources available in the form of twigs, dry leaves or firewood. The kilns where the clay pots are baked are operated at temperatures between 700 – 800 degrees celcius.

India is rich in her terracotta and pottery traditions many of which have their roots in prehistory. Pottery has a wide universality and its tradition goes back to span of five millennium.Terracotta pottery has been called the lyric of handicrafts because of its irresistible appeal.A variety of earthen objects are created such as lamps, pitchers, flower vases, pots, musical instruments, candle stands etc. 
 
 

Raw materials:- 

 

Basic Material : Mitti / clay, mustard oil, potter wheel, gum, starch, wax,Clay, potters wheel, twigs, dry branches, leaves, firewood, rice straw, Red clay, black clay, pilli mitti, yellow clay,Various types of Mitti (clay/mud), edible gum, starch, clay, wax. Decorative Material:ash, sand, cow-dung, rice husk,Clay, sand, phunanphadi(wet cloth), phuzei(wooden beater), kangkhil, sealed vessel slab, lepshum(cylindrical platform),Plastic clay mitti, mustard oil, potters wheel, edible gum, starch, feldspar, clay, wax .

 

 

Process:- 

 

The shapes which are required for a variety of uses are turned on the wheel.The certain portions such as the spout or the handle are left out.They are casted separately and than attached to the body. After it, the decoration is done by incising patterns on the surface for making geometrical patterns. 
 
The clay mixed with ash and sand is kneaded by feet, collected and cut with lahasur.It is then kneaded with hand, on peeda and a lump is made.All the solid particles are removed. The ready clay is kept on wheel for making various forms.A potters wheel has short sports, turns on a pivot of hard wood or metal and is provided with a large hub which acts as a revolving table.A vertical stick is inserted in the hole in the rim.The potter throws the kneaded clay into the centre of the wheel, and spins the wheel around with the stick. Due to the centrifugal force the lump of clay is pulled outwards and upwards and shaped into a vessel.This is pulled out with a string, dried and fired in a potters kiln.Clay article after firing turns to terracotta.
 
The pots are fired in simple open-pit kilns that are very efficient and inexpensive for firing pots at a temperature of 700 - 800 degree Celsius.The pots are arranged in layers of pots, a layer of leaves, twigs and cow dung cake is some times added.The mound is then covered with a blanket of rice straw which, in turn is covered with a thin layer of loamy soil.The firing takes four to five hours.
 
Black, red and yellow clay are used for making terracotta items, which are collected in the form of small pieces from Rajasthan and Delhi.The material is mixed properly and dried under the hot sun so that any sort of moisture, if present, may evaporate.Then the mixture of wet clay is filtered through a fine sieve to remove pebble. After giving shape with hands the items are then baked in the improvisede kilns covered with cow dung cakes, fuel and saw dust etc.
 
The clay, mixed with ash and sand is kneaded by feet.Then it is kneaded with hand on peeda & a lump is made.All the solid particles like gravel, small pebbles, twigs etc. are removed.The ready clay is kept on wheel to make various forms.A potters wheel has soft spokes, turns on a pivot of hard wood or metal and is provided with a large hub, which acts as revolving table.A vertical stick is inserted in the hole in the rim.The potter throws the kneaded clay into the centre of the wheel and spins the wheel around with a stick. Due to the centrifugal force the lump of clay is pulled outwards & upwards and shaped into a vessel.This is pulled out with a string, dried and fired in a potters kiln.Clay article after firing turns to terracotta.

 

 

Techniques:- 

 

Women potters practice a unique hand modeling technique, probably dialing back to earlier than Neolithic times before the invention of the wheel.The products made are surface of plain pots, water filters, vases, incense burners, lamps and hukkas. 

 

Folk Painting:-


 
Madhuban, in the Himalayan foothills of Mithila, is the home of the Madhubani paintings. Traditionally, on festive and religious occasions, and during social celebrations, the women of Mithila decorated their homes and courtyards with images that were vibrant, colourful, and deeply religious. The subjects of these paintings were gods and goddesses, mythology and nature. The women use rich earthy colours --- reds, yellows, indigoes, and blues --- in their lyrical paintings of gods and goddesses like Rama-Sita, Krishna-Radha, and Shiva-Gauri. These were intended for shrines and in the khovar, the innermost chamber of the house where the bride and bridegroom began their married lives. The women used basic materials like gum, thread, and matchsticks or fine bamboo slivers wrapped in cotton to execute these wonderfully eloquent paintings.
 
The women passed on this traditional art form to their daughters over generations and this art is still alive and thriving. During a severe drought in the 1960s in the normally fertile region of Mithila, the people of Mithila were forced to look at something other than agriculture as a source of income. They got the women of Mithila to execute their art on paper and cloth, and today Madhubani is one of the most popular works of folk art all over the world. The themes and techniques used for the painting are still the same. The canvas has changed from walls and floors to cloth and paper and papier mache.
 
On auspicious occasions, and at festivals, marriages, and births, women paint aripan and dhuli chitras or dust paintings on the mud floors of their huts. Geometrical and highly stylised, these paintings are open astrological charts, a storehouse of the wisdom of the ages. Folk paintings are done by a community of tribesmen called the chitrakars, in the Santhal Parganas,. They paint scrolls in the traditional manner, depicting stories and moral lessons. They carry the scroll paintings from one Santhal village to another and sing the story, for which they receive some remuneration.

 
Raw Materials Used :-
 
1. Plywood (water proof)
2. Longcloth / pipline
3. Fevicol
4. Yellow oxide
5. Chalks
6. Arabic gum
7. Gold foil
8. Stones
9. Poster color Paint
10. Round brush-0, 00,000,1,3,6
11. Flat brush-2
12. Yellow carbon


 
Process:-


 
The characteristic of Thanjavur painting is that the figures in the paintings have a round body and egg shaped effulgent eyes and are surrounded by curtains and arch. These paintings will illuminate in the dark room.

From the humble canvas and brush the ultimate form of the beauty, the Tanjore paintings, is made. The Canvas used for this painting previously was wood of the Jackfruit tree but the modern artist uses plywood. A layer of cloth is pasted over this plywood using the Arabic adhesive. A uniform coating of limestone paste and a binding material is applied and the cloth is let to dry. The artist then sketches the meticulous pictures on the canvas while the paste of limestone and fastening substance is used during adorning and engraving ornaments into the paintings.


 
Techniques:-

 

 

1. Remove starch from the cloth ( soaking it in water for 1 hr and then dry the cloth).

2. Take 60 ml approxmatily Fevicol and mix it with 1/2 cup water well (to get milk consistency

3. Dip the cloth in this fevicol paste and squeeze it. Repeat this process 5 to 6 times (so that the cloth absorbs and gets coated with fevicol well)

4. Squeeze the cloth slightly and stick it on the plywood board.To stick:- First stick cloth one one side of the board well and then pull the cloth on the opposite side well and stick the cloth well. Use palm to remove the air bubbles and wrinkles by pressing the cloth from center to the edges.

5. Now stick the third side and fourth side in the same procedure.

6. Pour the remaining fevicol-water mixture (if left out) on this board and spread out evenly.

7. Dry this board in Sun till dry.

 

 

 

 

 




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