Cluster Detail
Jharkhand     Ranchi     Sua Chianki of Datonganj


A cluster is defined as a geographic concentration(a city/town/few adjacent villages and their adjoining areas)of units producing near similar products and facing common opportunities and threats. An artisan cluster is defined as geographically concentrated(mostly in villages/townships)household units producing handicraft/handloom products.In a typical cluster,such producers often belong to a traditional community,producing the long-established products for generations.Indeed,many artisan clusters are centuries old Artisan.



About Sua Chianki of Datonganj Cluster:-


Sua Chianki of Datonganj Cluster falls under Jharkhand State in Ranchi district.

The Sua Chianki of Datonganj cluster is able to form 220 plus Artisans & 22 SHGs supporting the strong work force.The mobilisation gains momentum day by day.

 

Embroidery:-


Embroidery(fine needlework)is created by the women of the tribe for traditional, ceremonial and practical uses using a variety of techniques. Similar to other textile societies like the Balouch and other Central Asian tribes, most everyday objects were woven or embroidered by the tribes people themselves with materials and dyes gathered from their herds of livestock and the plants and trees growing in the regions through which they migrated. Textiles were pliable and could assume different shapes on their difficult journeys and could be packed flat when not being used.Textiles are also less heavy than wood(not freely available)and breakage was minimal. Additionally, written histories among nomadic peoples is rare. Perhaps some of their communal history is inscribed in the designs and motifs found on their rugs and textiles.On Banjara textiles most patterns are represented in either square or rectangular form. Human forms are rarely created which is another unique similarity with other textile societies either of Islamic origin and others as well.Numerous embroidery techniques can be observed in Banjara embroideries. Often up to 2 or 3 techniques can be seen on a single small tapestry. Thesetechniques include, but are not limited to, chain stitch, cross-stitch, stem stitch, couching, appliqué, mirrors, kashida and quit stitch.For dancing and ordinary ceremonial wear, women use traditional skirts, shawls and backless blouses generally made of commercial textiles, synthetic yarns and locally available mirrors and metal ornaments. The blouses usually are ornamented on the sleeves and fully embroidered with mirrors across the front. Embroidered flaps with metal ornaments are added to the blouses of married women. The shawls have embroidered borders along the top and bottom edges with a wider more elaborate strip of mirror embroidery at the center top that frames the face. The skirts, hanging low on the hips, are worn with the kodi sadak, a long rope of cowries; the waist bands are generally reinforced with sturdy embroidery, worked on a red quilted or twined ground.Particularly fine pieces are made for prospective brides.Banjara women throughout India wear elaborate twisted and braided hairdos that support and display jewelry and textiles; those styles are typical of Rajasthan. The traditional dress is completed with rows of ivory or bone bracelets, with silver bangles, nose gold ring (bhuria),beads or silver coins necklaces.Amongst the Banjaras, the single most important ceremonial textile is an embroidery approximately 50 cm. square, of many uses including wedding water pot cover or ritual table cover. It can pre folded to make up different kind of elaborately embroidered dowry bags.

 

Raw Materials used:-


The fabric is worked upon with a long needle,threads,tikris and beads.Multi sized frames are used, usually about 1.5 feet high,to secure the cloth on which the design is sketched with a stencil. One hand secures the thread under the cloth to the needle while the other hand moves the needle on top of the cloth with ease.

 

Process:-


As embroidery is not so technical craft to follow procedure but then also small process like:

  1. The motif is made on the tracing screen for symmetrical marking and uniformity,like the Khaka.
  2. The motifs are marked on the fabric with a marking mixer(liquid) for embroidery work.
  3. Now set the marked fabric very tight from all directions.(Saree,Dress materials,etc.)On Wooden frame(it can be done without frame also).
  4. It will work easier to do embroidery with the help of frame to reduce tension and get pucker less product.
  5. The desired motif is neatly embroidered with different stitches(Pakko,Kachho,Soof,Rabari,kharek etc)to  achieve desired motif.
  6. The result can be many colors and is easy to make.

Set the fabric(Saree,Dress,material,etc.)on Wooden frame(it can be done without frame also) according to the design with desired allowance for the product.The motif is made the tracing screen for symmetrical making and uniformity,like the Khaka.The motif is marked with a marking mixer in a liquid form (Kerosene and gali powder) whether for embroidery the desired motif is neatly embroidery with different stitches to achieve desired motif.

Embroidery designs are prepared by fixing small round shaped mirrors to the material with the help of the buttonhole stitch,the outline being sketched by hand.Silken thread is used for the stitching done in stem or herringbone,closely worked.Flowers and creepers are patterned against a dark background.

 

Techniques:-

 

Techniques vary with the community and region.The term embroidery is basically defined as the method of ornamenting a piece of clothing with needlework; or embellishment with fanciful details. Thus embroidery is regarded as the art of decorating textiles using a needle and thread.This includes the hand and machine embroidery methods.And till date,hand embroidery continues to be an expensive and time-consuming method.However,in spite of this it is preferred because of the intricacy of the handiwork involved.

 

The basic techniques an embroiderer uses includes:-

  1. Cross stitch
  2. Crewel work
  3. Quilting
  4. Chain Sticth
  5. Stem Sticth
  6. Couching Sticth
  7. Applique Sticth
  8. Mirrors Sticth
  9. Kasida Sticth

 

How to Reach:-


By Air:-

 

Ranchi is well linked to important airports in India, including Patna, Delhi and Kolkata. Ranchi airport is located at Hinoo, nearly 7 km away from the city center. Kolkata is the nearest International airport, which is well connected to many cities in India and abroad.

 

By Road:-


Ranchi is well linked with many cities in Jharkand by state road transport corporation buses. The cities Bokaro (110 km), Chaibasa (130 km), Dhanbad (170 km), Patna (340 km) and Jamshedpur (140 km) are all connected to Ranchi.

 

By Train:-

 

Ranchi railhead is well connected to important cities all over the country. Nearest station Hatia is a terminal station and many express trains starts from Haiti and have stop at Ranchi.

 




About Implementing Agency



Jharkhand     Ranchi     Society for Environment and Social Awarenss (SESA)