A cluster is defined as a geographic concentration(a city/town/few adjacent villages and their adjoining areas)of units producing near similar products and facing common opportunities and threats.An artisan cluster is defined as geographically concentrated (mostly in villages/townships)household units producing handicraft/handloom products.In a typical cluster, such producers often belong to a traditional community, producing the long-established products for generations. Indeed, many artisan clusters are centuries old Artisan.About Block Bandipura Cluster:-Block Bandipura Cluster falls under Jammu & Kashmir State in Baramulla district.The Block Bandipura cluster is able to form 109 plus Artisans & 11 SHGs supporting the strong work force.The mobilisation gains momentum day by day.Hand embroidery:-
Kashmir is known internationally for its style of embroidery which is found on garments like the phiran, tapestry, curtains, shawls and household linen. The craftsmen draw inspiration from the landscape and the embroidery is renowned for its beauty and richness. The main patterns in this region are chinar leaves, cypress cones, the lotus and almonds.Kashida, the local lingo for the embroidery, in a number of stitch styles, of which, the sujni stitch is used when uniformity is desired on both sides, like in choice shawls. Zalakdosi, the chain stitch done with a hook is found on chogas (cloaks) and rugs with long and flowing designs. A buttonhole stitch for thick fillings is Vata-chikan. Amli embroidery in multicoloured threads is found in kani shawls while Do-rookha is a double-sided stitch used to create similar patterns on either side but with different colour combinations. Gold or silver embroidery is done around the necks of the gown or phirans while chain and cross-filling stitches are used to do crewel work on namda or carpets. Gabba is another type of floor covering made out of old blankets with a combination of appliqué work and chain stitches. Patterns on gabbas and namdhas are in floral and geometrical designs. Shawls and furnishing fabrics are also embroidered while the famous Pashmina shawls are embroidered with fine silk thread .The main flat stitches with their traditional names are:Taipchi: Running stitch worked on the right side of the fabric. It is occasionally done within parallel rows to fill petals and leaves in a motif, called ghaspatti. Sometimes taipchi is used to make the bel buti all over the fabric. This is the simplest chikan stitch and often serves as a basis for further embellishment. It resembles jamdani and is considered the cheapest and the quickest stitch.Pechni: Taipchi is sometime used as a base for working other variations and pechni is one of them. Here the taipchi is covered by entwining the thread over it in a regular manner to provide the effect of something like a lever spring and is always done on the right side on the cloth.Pashni: Taipchi is worked to outline a motif and then covered with minute vertical satin stitches over about two threads and is used for fine finish on the inside of badla.Bakhia: It is the most common stitch and is often referred to as shadow work. It is of two types:(a) Ulta Bakhia: The floats lie on the reverse of the fabric underneath the motif. The transparent muslin becomes opaque and provides a beautiful effect of light and shade.(b) Sidhi Bakhia: Satin stitch with criss-crossing of individual threads. The floats of thread lie on the surface of the fabric. This is used to fill the forms and there is no light or shade effect.Khatao, khatava or katava is cutwork or appliqué - more a technique than a stitch.Gitti: A combination of buttonhole and long satin stitch usually used to make a wheel-like motif.Jangira: Chain stitch usually used as outlines in combination with a line of pechni or thick taipchi.The bolder or knottier stitches include the following:Murri: A very minute satin stitch in which a knot is formed over already outlined taipchi stitches.Phanda: It is a smaller shortened form of murri. The knots are spherical and very small, not pear shaped as in murri. This is a difficult stitch and requires very good craftsmanship.Jaalis: The jaalis or trellises that are created in chikankari are a unique specialty of this craft. The holes are made by manipulation of the needle without cutting or drawing of thread. The threads of the fabric are teased apart to make neat regular holes or jaalis. In other centres where jaalis are done, the threads have to be drawn out. In chikankari, this is not the case. Names of jaali techniques suggest the place where they originated from --- Madrasi jaali or Bengali jaali ---- or possibly the place of demand for that particular jaali. The basic manner in which jaalis are created is by pushing aside wrap and weft threads in a fashion that minute openings are made in the cloth. Shape of openings and the stitches used distinguish one jaali from another.Raw materials:-The fabric is worked upon with a long needle,threads,tikris and beads.Multi sized frames are used, usually about 1.5 feet high,to secure the cloth on which the design is sketched with a stencil. One hand secures the thread under the cloth to the needle while the other hand moves the needle on top of the cloth with ease.
Process:-The production process of a chikan garment, assuming it is a kurta, goes through several processes. In each process a different person is involved. The final responsibility is, however, that of the person ordering the manufacture, who is also usually the seller. Chikan work involves several stages. The fabric is cut by the tailor into the required garment shape, after which the basic pre-embroidery stitching is done so that the correct shape is available to the block-printer to plan the placement of the design. The design is printed on the semi-stitched garment with fugitive colors, and the embroidery of the garment is then begun. After completion, the article is checked carefully since most defects can be detected at first glance. However, the finer flaws surface only after washing. The washing is done in a bhatti, after which the garment is then starched and ironed. The whole cycle can take from one to six months. Originally, chikan embroidery was done with white thread on soft, white cotton fabric like muslin or cambric. It was sometimes done on net to produce a kind of lace. Today chikan work is not only done with colored threads but on all kinds of fabrics like silk, crepe, organdie chiffon, and tussar.Techniques:-There is a discipline and method in the application of the stitches. The darn stitch is worked on rough cotton fabric to fill angular designs and to cover the surface of the fabric, while satin stitching is done exclusively on delicate fabrics like silk, muslin, or linen. In chikan some stitches are worked from the wrong side of the fabric, while others are worked from the right side. It is however unique in its discipline in as much as stitches designated for a particular purpose are used only for that purpose --- they are not replaced by other stiches. For example, the chain stitch (zanjeera) will only be used for the final outline of a leaf, petal, or stem.Different specialists work with different types of stitches. For example, open work or jaali is not done by embroiderers who do the filling work - each worker completes his/her bit and the fabric is then sent to the next embroiderer. The wages for each job are fixed separately.How to reach:-
By Air:-
The nearest Airport is Srinagar, about 65 Kms from District Headquarters.
By Road:-
Baramulla town is located at 60 kms from Srinagar. The best way to reach Baramulla is by a bus or taxi. National Highway 1A (NH-1A) connects the district with rest of the country. Taxi and busses are available from Srinagar and Jammu.
By Train:-
The nearest Railway Station is Jammu Tawi, about 360 Kms from District Headquarters. A new railway line is under construction which will connect Baramulla to Jammu Tawi through Budgam, Srinagar, Pulwama, Anantnag, Doda and Udhampur.
Zari :- Embroidery done with metallic threads is called kalabattu and forms the zari.The main zari production centres are Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh.Here the metal ingots are melted into metal bars called pasa from which lengths are got by beating it after treatment. This is then pulled through perforated steel plates to make it into wires, followed by the tarkashi process to make it thin with rubber and diamond dies.The last stage is called badla where the wire is flattened and twisted with silk or cotton thread to become kasab or kalabattu.This has uniform evenness, flexibility, softness, and ductility.Kasab can stand for real silver/gold, as well as for plated silver/gold or for an imitation in which a copper base is given a coat of silver or golden color to make the product less expensive. Zari thread is used widely in weaving but more selectively in embroidery.For intricate patterns gijai or a thin, stiff wire is used; sitara, a small star-shaped metal piece is used for floral designs.This type of embroidery is called salma-sitara.The thicker kalabattu is a braided gold thread used for borders while the thinner variety is used at the end of the drawstring of purses or batwas, and in tassels, necklaces, and strings.Tikora is a gold thread spirally twisted for complicated designs.The dull zari thread is called kora and the more shiny one is called chikna.The equipment that is used for embroidery is a rectangular wooden-frame called karchob and a wooden leg called thapa used for sewing laces.Listed below are different kinds of zari work. Zardozi: This is a heavy and more elaborate embroidery work which uses varieties of gold threads, spangles, beads, seed pearls, wire, and gota.It is used to embellish wedding outfits, heavy coats, cushions, curtains, canopies, animal trappings, bags, purses, belts, and shoes.The material on which this kind of embroidery is done is usually heavy silk, velvet and satin.The kind of stitches found are salma-sitara, gijai, badla, katori, and seed pearls, among others.The main centres are in Delhi, Jaipur, Banaras, Agra, and Surat.The old teach the young and the skill continues from generation to generation.Kamdani : This is a lighter needlework which is done on lighter material like scarves, veils, and caps.Ordinary thread is used and the wire is pressed down with the stitching producing a satin-stitch effect.The effect produced is glittering and is called hazara butti(thousand lights). Mina Work : This is thus called owing to its resemblance with enamel work.The embroidery is done in gold. Kataoki Bel : This is a border pattern made of stiff canvas and the whole surface is filled with sequin edging.A variation of this border technique is lace made on net and filled with zari stitches and spangles. Makaish : This is one of the oldest styles and is done with silver wire or badla.The wire itself serves as a needle, piercing the material to complete the stitches.A variety of designs are produced in this manner. Tilla or Marori Work : This is the kind of embroidery where gold thread is stitched on to the surface with a needle. Gota Work: The woven gold border is cut into various shapes to create a variety of textures in the patterns.In Jaipur the border of the material or sari is cut into shapes of birds, animals, and human figures, attached to the cloth, and covered with wires of silver and gold; it is surrounded by coloured silks.The work resembles enameling. Kinari Work: A small variation is kinari work where the embellishments are done only at the edges in the form of tassels.This is done mainly by men and women of the Muslim community. Raw Materials:- Basic Material: Silk, zari, cotton, polyester, jacquard loom; dori (thread; 80no./60 no., mercerized yarn(dhaga)30 no. Decorative Material: Peacock feathers. Coloring Material: Bukani (colour powder). Process:- A pattern of the design to be woven is drawn on paper.The design is transferred on the cotton yarn with the help of tilli through the warp and weft grid.This contrivance is known as jala, which contains the total graphic pattern.This jala is hung from top of the loom and tied to the warp threads only the controlled warp threads are lifted as per the design.Extra weft threads of zari/ silk are inserted in the raised portions, row by row, along with the running weft thread.Jala device has been replaced by the punched cardson; the jacquard looms for these brocade decorations.Gyasar the Tibetan woven offerings are very closely woven.Apart from the silk/zari thread peacock feathers are used in a satin weave to produce an entire surface of the feathers.The motifs are woven on dark red, yellow, blue and white satin ground with use of gold and silver zari. Techniques:- Applique-and-Cut technique:- Normally, fine white stranded cotton is used for chikan embroidery.Some stitches are worked from the front of the fabric, others from the back.Sheila Paine, in the book Chikan Embroidery, observes that there are six basic stitches, which are used in combination with a series of stitches for embossing flowers and leaves.Pulled work(known in chikan work by the Hindi word jali, which means a window with a pierced lattice, which can be looked out of but not into)and khatao(an applique-and-cut technique, where one piece of fabric is hemmed on to another piece and then cut away) complete the repertoire.
Zari :-
Embroidery done with metallic threads is called kalabattu and forms the zari.The main zari production centres are Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh.Here the metal ingots are melted into metal bars called pasa from which lengths are got by beating it after treatment. This is then pulled through perforated steel plates to make it into wires, followed by the tarkashi process to make it thin with rubber and diamond dies.The last stage is called badla where the wire is flattened and twisted with silk or cotton thread to become kasab or kalabattu.This has uniform evenness, flexibility, softness, and ductility.Kasab can stand for real silver/gold, as well as for plated silver/gold or for an imitation in which a copper base is given a coat of silver or golden color to make the product less expensive.
Zari thread is used widely in weaving but more selectively in embroidery.For intricate patterns gijai or a thin, stiff wire is used; sitara, a small star-shaped metal piece is used for floral designs.This type of embroidery is called salma-sitara.The thicker kalabattu is a braided gold thread used for borders while the thinner variety is used at the end of the drawstring of purses or batwas, and in tassels, necklaces, and strings.Tikora is a gold thread spirally twisted for complicated designs.The dull zari thread is called kora and the more shiny one is called chikna.The equipment that is used for embroidery is a rectangular wooden-frame called karchob and a wooden leg called thapa used for sewing laces.Listed below are different kinds of zari work.
Zardozi: This is a heavy and more elaborate embroidery work which uses varieties of gold threads, spangles, beads, seed pearls, wire, and gota.It is used to embellish wedding outfits, heavy coats, cushions, curtains, canopies, animal trappings, bags, purses, belts, and shoes.The material on which this kind of embroidery is done is usually heavy silk, velvet and satin.The kind of stitches found are salma-sitara, gijai, badla, katori, and seed pearls, among others.The main centres are in Delhi, Jaipur, Banaras, Agra, and Surat.The old teach the young and the skill continues from generation to generation.Kamdani : This is a lighter needlework which is done on lighter material like scarves, veils, and caps.Ordinary thread is used and the wire is pressed down with the stitching producing a satin-stitch effect.The effect produced is glittering and is called hazara butti(thousand lights).
Mina Work : This is thus called owing to its resemblance with enamel work.The embroidery is done in gold.
Kataoki Bel : This is a border pattern made of stiff canvas and the whole surface is filled with sequin edging.A variation of this border technique is lace made on net and filled with zari stitches and spangles.
Makaish : This is one of the oldest styles and is done with silver wire or badla.The wire itself serves as a needle, piercing the material to complete the stitches.A variety of designs are produced in this manner.
Tilla or Marori Work : This is the kind of embroidery where gold thread is stitched on to the surface with a needle.
Gota Work: The woven gold border is cut into various shapes to create a variety of textures in the patterns.In Jaipur the border of the material or sari is cut into shapes of birds, animals, and human figures, attached to the cloth, and covered with wires of silver and gold; it is surrounded by coloured silks.The work resembles enameling.
Kinari Work: A small variation is kinari work where the embellishments are done only at the edges in the form of tassels.This is done mainly by men and women of the Muslim community.
Raw Materials:-
Basic Material: Silk, zari, cotton, polyester, jacquard loom; dori (thread; 80no./60 no., mercerized yarn(dhaga)30 no.
Decorative Material: Peacock feathers.
Coloring Material: Bukani (colour powder).
Process:-
A pattern of the design to be woven is drawn on paper.The design is transferred on the cotton yarn with the help of tilli through the warp and weft grid.This contrivance is known as jala, which contains the total graphic pattern.This jala is hung from top of the loom and tied to the warp threads only the controlled warp threads are lifted as per the design.Extra weft threads of zari/ silk are inserted in the raised portions, row by row, along with the running weft thread.Jala device has been replaced by the punched cardson; the jacquard looms for these brocade decorations.Gyasar the Tibetan woven offerings are very closely woven.Apart from the silk/zari thread peacock feathers are used in a satin weave to produce an entire surface of the feathers.The motifs are woven on dark red, yellow, blue and white satin ground with use of gold and silver zari.
Techniques:-
Applique-and-Cut technique:-
Normally, fine white stranded cotton is used for chikan embroidery.Some stitches are worked from the front of the fabric, others from the back.Sheila Paine, in the book Chikan Embroidery, observes that there are six basic stitches, which are used in combination with a series of stitches for embossing flowers and leaves.Pulled work(known in chikan work by the Hindi word jali, which means a window with a pierced lattice, which can be looked out of but not into)and khatao(an applique-and-cut technique, where one piece of fabric is hemmed on to another piece and then cut away) complete the repertoire.