Cluster Detail
Orissa     Khurda     Balianta


A cluster is defined as a geographic concentration (city/town/few adjacent villages and their adjoining areas) of units producing near similar products and facing common opportunities and threats. An artisan cluster is defined as geographically concentrated (mostly in villages/townships) household units producing handicraft/handloom products. In a typical cluster, such producers often belong to a traditional community, producing the long-established products for generations. Indeed, many artisan clusters are centuries old Artisan.

About Balianta Cluster:-

Balianta Cluster falls under Orissa State in Khurda district.

The Balianta cluster is able to form 178 plus Artisans & 13 SHGs supporting the strong work force. The mobilization gains momentum day by day. Balianta Cluster is famous for Patchwork and Embroidery Crafts.

 

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Patchwork:-


Patchwork or "pieced work" is a form of needlework that involves sewing together pieces of fabric into a larger design. The larger design is usually based on repeat patterns built up with different fabric shapes (which can be different colors). These shapes are carefully measured and cut, basic geometric shapes making them easy to piece together. Precise joining by the most part with a quarter inch foot makes for a patchwork that lies flat without puckers.

 



Making:-


In the past, hand quilting was often done in a group around a frame. Instead of quilting, the layers are sometimes tied together at regular intervals with pieces of yarn, a practice known as tying or knotting, and which produces a "comforter".

 



Structure:-


There are three traditional structures used to construct a patchwork or pieced composition: 1) the block, 2) overall, and 3) strip piecing. Traditional patchwork has identifying names based on the arrangement of colors and shapes

 

 

Blocks:-


Patchwork blocks are pieced squares made up of colored shapes that repeat specific shapes to create patterns within the square or block, of, say, light and dark, or contrasting colors (motif (textile arts)). The blocks can all repeat the same pattern, or blocks can have several different patterns. The patchwork blocks are typically around 8–10" square (20cm to 25cm). They are sewn together in stacked rows to make a larger composition. Often strips of contrasting fabric forming a lattice separate the patchwork blocks from each other. Some common patchwork block names are Log Cabin, Drunkard's Path, Bear's Paw, Tulip, and Nine Patch.
A unique form of patchwork quilt is the crazy quilt. Crazy quilting was popular during the Victorian era (mid–late 19th century). The crazy quilt is made up of random shapes of luxurious fabric such as velvets, silks, and brocades and buttons, lace, and other embellishments left over from the gowns they had made for themselves. The patchwork pieces are stitched together forming "crazy" or non-repeat, asymmetric compositions. Fancy embroidery embellishes the seam lines between the individual, pieced shapes. The crazy quilt was a status symbol, as only well-to-do women had a staff to do all the household work, and had the time to sew their crazy quilt. Traditionally, the top was left without lining or batting. Many surviving crazy quilts still have the newspaper and other foundation papers used for piecing.

 

 


Strip piecing:-


Strip piecing involves stitching together pieces of fabric in repeat patterns into long strips and then stitching the strips together lengthwise. The patchwork strips can be alternated with strips of contrasting colors. A typical strip patchwork quilt is the Flying Geese pattern.

 

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Embroidery:-

 
The term embroidery is basically defined as the method of ornamenting a piece of clothing with needlework;or embellishment with fanciful details.Thus embroidery is regarded as the art of decorating textiles using a needle and thread.Embroidery of Orissa has earned its fame because of the versatility of creations by the artisans.The artisans of Orissa use an array of stitches that are used to decorate the items.The most important centres of embroidery work of Orissa are located in the Orissa regions and are admired for the creative excellence.The embroidery of Orissa is one of the main sources of income for different other communities.Today, even though embroidery is amongst the most traditional methods of decorating clothes,it is still as popular.Designs may date back to ancient times,or the modern geometric modern day designs,but all the same embroidery continues to be one of the common ways of decorating clothes.In fact,specialists feel that today,there is much more scope for creativity and innovation,because of the acceptance level.
 
This has ornamentation of tikris and beads,which make them,look attractive.This type of embroidery is done on a frame of wooden beams.The fabric is worked upon with a long needle,threads,tikris and beads.Multi sized frames are used,usually about 1.5 feet high,to secure the cloth on which the design is sketched with a stencil. One hand secures the thread under the cloth to the needle while the other hand moves the needle on top of the cloth with ease.Decorative tikris and beads are attached to the cloth with the needle.

Another embroidery pattern is the jaali or net embroidery in geometric or floral shapes and is done by pulling the warp and weft threads and fixing them with minute buttonhole stitches.The finished products dominantly comprise items for household use like curtains,bedspreads,furniture covers and dress material.

 

 


Raw Materials used:-


The fabric is worked upon with a long needle,threads,tikris and beads.Multi sized frames are used, usually about 1.5 feet high,to secure the cloth on which the design is sketched with a stencil. One hand secures the thread under the cloth to the needle while the other hand moves the needle on top of the cloth with ease.

 


 
Process:-

  1. As embroidery is not so technical craft to follow procedure but then also small process like:
  2. The motif is made on the tracing screen for symmetrical marking and uniformity,like the Khaka.
  3. The motifs are marked on the fabric with a marking mixer(liquid) for embroidery work.
  4. Now set the marked fabric very tight from all directions.(Saree,Dress materials,etc.)On Wooden frame(it can be done without frame also).
  5. It will work easier to do embroidery with the help of frame to reduce tension and get pucker less product.
  6. The desired motif is neatly embroidered with different stitches(Pakko,Kachho,Soof,Rabari,kharek etc)to  achieve desired motif.
  7. The result can be many colors and is easy to make.

Set the fabric(Saree,Dress,material,etc.)on Wooden frame(it can be done without frame also) according to the design with desired allowance for the product.The motif is made the tracing screen for symmetrical making and uniformity,like the Khaka.The motif is marked with a marking mixer in a liquid form (Kerosene and gali powder) whether for embroidery the desired motif is neatly embroidery with different stitches to achieve desired motif.

Embroidery designs are prepared by fixing small round shaped mirrors to the material with the help of the buttonhole stitch,the outline being sketched by hand.Silken thread is used for the stitching done in stem or herringbone,closely worked.Flowers and creepers are patterned against a dark background.

 

 


Techniques:-

Techniques vary with the community and region.The term embroidery is basically defined as the method of ornamenting a piece of clothing with needlework; or embellishment with fanciful details. Thus embroidery is regarded as the art of decorating textiles using a needle and thread.This includes the hand and machine embroidery methods.And till date,hand embroidery continues to be an expensive and time-consuming method.However,in spite of this it is preferred because of the intricacy of the handiwork involved.

 

 


The basic techniques an embroiderer uses includes:-


1.    Cross stitch
2.    Crewel work
3.    Quilting

 

 

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How to Reach:-

 

By Air:-

 

Bhubaneswar is the nearest Airport at a distance of 30 Kms.

 

By Road:-

 

Khurda is on the N.H.5.Regular bus service is available from all major towns of the state to Bhubaneswar+ Khurda.

 

By Train:-

 

Khurda road is the nearest Railway junction at a distance of 12 kms. Bhubaneswar Railway Station is 30 Kms.

 

 




About Implementing Agency



Orissa     Khurda     Darbar Sahitya Sansad